Alfine Di2 is HERE - Update #2

Whenever there's an update #1, there's always update #2.  Well, at first there's the newer version of the Alfine dynamo appearing on ebay (www.ebay.com).  Then there's...

Need I say more?  The parts are somewhat pricey, but I can hear them calling my name. 

2013 Swobo's Internal-Gear Bikes Lineup

www.swobo.com

Swobo used to have fixed/SS and SRAM i-Motion in its lineup.  Well, the fixed-gear-hype dies down a bit, and the i-Motion is getting phase out.  Still in 2013, the Shimano Nexus/Alfine is not going anywhere.  Even though Shimano is about the pushing out Di2, but who knows?  Rather than a replacement to the existing all-mechanical hub, it might probably be another option for us.  But for those who are wants an gear-hub bike now, Swobo gots them:

Model	Fillmore	Novark	Dixon	Otis
Sizes available	48, 51, 54, 57, 60 cm	48, 51, 54, 57, 60 cm	16, 18, 20, 22 inch	16, 18, 20, 22 inch
Color	RAF blue	White	British Green	Silver
Frame and fork	TIG welded Swobo Chromoly	TIG welded Swobo Chromoly	TIG welded 7005 Aluminum	TIG welded 7005 Aluminum
Crankset	Shimano Nexus / 170mm / 38t	Shimano Nexus / 170mm/ 38t	Shimano Nexus / 170mm/ 38t	Shimano Nexus / 170mm/ 38t
Hubs	Shimano (F)/Shimano Alfine 8spd (R)	Swobo branded (F)/Shimano Nexus 3spd (R)	Shimano (F)/Shimano Alfine 8spd (R)	Shimano (F)/Shimano Nexus 3spd (R)
Wheels	700c/36 hole/Alex DA22 rims/14g Stainless spokes	700c/36 hole/Alex DA22 rims/14g Stainless spokes	26"/36 hole/Alex DP17 rims/14g Stainless spokes	26"/36 hole/Alex DP17 rims/14g Stainless spokes
Tires	Kenda K193 Kwest/700x28c/Puncture resistant	Kenda K193 Kwest/700x28c/Puncture resistant	Kenda K193 Kwest/700x28c/Puncture resistant	Kenda K193 Kwest/700x28c/Puncture resistant
Brakes	Tektro Aquilla mechanical disc	Tektro forged dual pivot caliper	Tektro Aquilla mechanical disc	Tektro Aquilla mechanical disc
Seat/post/stem/bars/grips	Swobo branded	Swobo branded	Swobo branded	Swobo branded
Extras	Aluminum fenders and chain guard	Aluminum fenders and chain guard	Aluminum chain guard	Aluminum chain guard

Transit TD-1 Rear Rack

Installing a rear rack on a bike is apparently not as straight forward as I would like.  Last year, I bought a Transit TD-1 rear rack from Performance Bike.  I thought it would be an at-most-10-min installation process.  I was wrong.  After 30 mins of trying to figure out the correct alignments, I gave up, the TD-1 would not fit my 80s Fuji Del Rey.  What happened next?  I got a seatpost rack for the Del Rey and let the TD-1 sit there at the corner of my garage for about a year.

One day, I decided to make some good use of it and install it on my Marin Muirwoods 29er.  The thing about bringing an abandon bike component back to life is if you are lucky, you would be able to find all the small parts and installation hardware that comes with it.  Unfortunately, this is not the case.  I have no clue where my spacers, washers, and last but the most important, the bolts went.  However, what I do have is the one-page installation guide, which doesn't seem to be available online.  The instruction does state the size of the bolts to install the rack, which I find the information extremely handy in this case.  Therefore, I would like to take this opportunity to share with owners of Transit TD-1... the installation instruction:

I hope this scanned copy helps as I don't see any other place where you can get it.

Pake C'Mute Build Day #1

FSA Metropolis on Marin Muirwoods 2010

I have a FSA Metropolis Handlebar lying around for some time, and I decided to replace the original handlebar with it on my Marin Muirwood 29er mainly because I always want to get rid of the stock handlebar.  The original handlebar is a ~68cm wide flat mtb bar with 25.4mm rise.  To me, the advantage is steering is more precise, but I am used to bicycling with a 42cm drop-bar.   If the handlebar too wide, it becomes a challenge when I am biking in narrow paths such as a pedestrian sidewalk in a tunnel; I am going to hit the wall and the handrail back and forward like a metronome.  Maybe it will work for some people, but the stock bar just doesn't fit my style of riding. 

Well, the FSA is narrower but not by much; it measures 620mm wide with a +/-45mm rise/drop and a 45 degree back sweep.  I went with the -45mm drop because it makes my commuter feels more like a road bike.  On the other hand, flipping the bar over (+45mm rise) seems a bit awkward to me.  Although it give you a more upright position, but I have to force raising my elbows to higher positions than I normally would if I do the rise, and it gets uncomfortable very quickly.   I took my Muirwood 29er out for a spin once, and first impression... certainly better than the original, but the 45 degree back sweep might be a little too much.  It might just take some time to get used to.

Alfine Di2 is HERE - Update #1

http://www.bikeman.com/HU7834.html

I guess this is no joke.  Shimano is really releasing the Di2 version of Alfine.  Just a wild guess, if the 11-speed version of the hub is SG-705, the 8-speed one should be SG-505?  The msrp is $674.99 for the 11-speed and 8-speed is $339.99, and the lowest price I've seen for the 11-speed is $514.45 from eBikeStop, and 8-speed is $239.99 also from eBikeStop.  There's also other required components to consider.  The SG-MU705 motor unit costs a little more than $100, the right brifter (ST-S705R) is $239.99, and $349.99 as a set (ST-S705).  I didn't mention anything about the left "brake-only" lever because it would make perfect sense to buy one unless the brake is not cable-actuated (hydraulics, wired electronics, or some wireless technologies. Who knows?).   As you can see from above, all websites that carry the Di2 Alfine don't have any of the parts in-stock.  So I guess we just have to keep believing until we can get our hands on one.  In the meantime, let me organize the retail prices above neatly in a table:

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Components	MSRP
Alfine SG-S705 Di2 Disc Brake 11spd 32h Hub Black	$674.99
Alfine SG-S505 Di2 Disc Brake 8-spd 32h Hub Black	$339.99
Alfine ST-S705R & BL-S705L Di2 Shift/Brake Lever Set	$349.99
Alfine ST-S705R Di2 Right Hand Shift/Brake Lever	$239.99
Alfine MU-S705 Di2 11speed Motor Unit	$139.99
Alfine SW-S705 Di2 Right Hand Flat Bar Shifter	$139.99
Alfine SC-705 Di2 E-tube Display Unit	$129.99
Alfine BL-S705-L Di2 Left Hand Drop Bar Brake Lever	$109.99
Shimano Alfine Di2 Small Parts Kit for Vertical Dropouts	$19.99
Shimano Alfine Di2 Small Parts Kit for 20deg Horizontal Dropouts	$19.99
Shimano Alfine Di2 Small Parts Kit for Track-type Dropouts	$19.99
Shimano Alfine Di2 Small Parts Kit for 38deg Horizontal Dropouts	$19.99

Bike Touring From SF to Santa Barbara

Never done it before.  Biking long distance is something I've been always thinking about.  Life is short (I am talking about theirs :), so let's not waste anymore time.  Thinking about doing this in the beginning of November.  I still have a little more than a month to do the planning. 

378 mi., 35 hours. 10.8 mph.  Realistically, I am thinking 50 miles per day, which means it should take about 8 days to get down to SB.  The most I did is 60 miles/day around part of the Bay Area.  Hm... how many extra tubes should I bring?  What else to bring?  More on that later.  

11/6/2012 Update:  I've done a lot of planning, I am physically and mentally ready, my Marin Muirwoods is also ready, I am pumped, BUT!  Urgh... something important came up.  Tour cancelled for now.    

Troubleshoot and Park Tool's Blog

Since I bought my 2010 Marin Muirwoods 29er from Craigslist in the beginning of January of this year (2012), it has been my daily commuter ever since, and sometimes my weekend recreational ride.  As a side note, many considered this type of bike not exactly 29er due to the stock tire width of 1.6 in. versus 2.0+ in. on a regular 29er.  Some say the chromoly frame of this bike is too heavy, but it's just about right to me.  The settle matte black is stylish and low-profile at the same time, just how I like it. True, the components are entry-level: Alivio 3/8-spd shifters, Truvativ X-Flow 3.0 (triple) crank, Deore rear derailleur, Alivio front derailleur, Hayes MX-4 FR brakes, etc.  This is the right setup for this type of bike.  Everything had been problem-free and silent during the first month, but as time passed, it started to get louder, and components began to fail one by one.  Shifting is inaccurate, gear skips, chain refuses to move down to the smallest cog, chain won't shift to the largest chainring, and rear disc brake squeals.  I hope I am not overworking the bike.  As I am writing this entry, the Muirwoods is taking a short break in the ICU department.

Although I bought the Marin used, but it wasn't messed up like it is now when I first got it.  Apparently, during the heavy rainy season from February to April, parking outdoor and biking in the rain makes it the progressively worse.  Initially, the front derailleur doesn't move to the correct position, then the rear gradually became a problem.  When a bicycle transmission went wrong, there could be many variables involved those could be causing the problem.  It could be the derailleurs, the chain, the cable, cable tension, derailleur adjustment, shifter, inadequate lubrication, worn-out gear(s), incorrect chainline, etc.

Because the chain won't go down to the smallest cog, I went with the conventional wisdom that adjusting the high limit screw of the rear derailleur and aligning pulley with the smallest cog would solve the problem, but I was wrong.  The position of the pulley did changed a bit, but it still starts from and align with the second smallest cog, (second highest gear), no matter which way I turn it won't go down to the highest gear.  Then I thought, the poor shifting might be the result of cable stretch, so I increased the tension by adjusting the barrel, but I still got the same result meaning attempt failed.  Then I decided to be spontaneous and started loosening the tension by turning the barrel the other way.  It works!  Well sorta.  The chain did move to the lowest cog, but it makes this really annoying rubbing noise, and when I was shift to third it skips to the four gear.  Upon inspecting the shifting, I noticed there's a stiff chain.  The stiff chain could be caused by inaccurate shifting making chain stuck either between the wheel and the cassette or the frame and the cassette.  I tried loosening the stiffness by bending it sideway, but it didn't seem to work.  I haven't try to further lubing it, but if that doesn't work, I might have to replace the chain.  Fingers crossed.

I did tried to look for further solutions as well as find answer to the disc brake squeals.  Aside bikeforum.net, I came across videos from Park Tool's Blog, which I find very helpful.  Usually, an instructional video clip provides a what-it-seems-to-be-the-most-effective method to troubleshoot a particular problem.   Not that I find anything wrong with that, but Park Tool's blog is different.  The video shows you multiple trial and error approaches to resolve a problem.  Those approaches may not give you a total relieve, but I find them quite realistic.  Of course, being working for Park Tool would mean you get endless of bicycle tools and other accessories/components to test and see if something works or not; for instance, one of the demonstrators use different chains to test if it's the cogs or the chains' problem.  However, most of the stuff shown is really practical, and they can be done by someone like you and me.

If you have the curiosity and patience to watch and learn, please see the links below:

Calvin's Corner, Reconditioning Older Bikes: http://www.parktool.com/blog/calvins-corner/reconditioning-older-bikes
Calvin's Corner, Disc Brake Squeal, Case Study: http://www.parktool.com/blog/calvins-corner/disc-brake-squeal
Park Tool Company Channel on Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/user/parktoolcompany

There's actually more blogs, tutorials, and videos on Park Tool's official website.  Enjoy!

Bargains Section

If you haven't noticed, I just started an "Up For Sale" section below the post section listing all the recent sales items and deals.  Hopefully, it's something that you might also be interested in and find them useful.  If you also have similar tweets, let me know.  I'll be happy to be your follower.

Bike Trails in SF East Bay

Below are some of the car-free trails I really enjoyed in the East Bay. 

1.  Iron Horse Trail (24.0 mi., from Dublin/Pleasanton Bart Station (final stop), to Concord)

Although, there are quite a few crossroads along the way requiring you to stop, this 24.0 mi of flat and effortless path is one of the most enjoyable.  The start point of this trail literally begins from the Bart Station.  I never did a round trip from Dublin/Pleasanton Bart Station to Concord then back since it took a considerable amount of time to complete one way for me, at least.  

Source, for more information, map in PDF format: www.ebparks.org/parks/trails/iron_horse

With the every-beginning-has-an-end attitude, our journey begins.

My favorite part of the trail.

Concord! Finally!

2.  Alameda Creek Regional Trail (~11 mi. from Mission Blvd., Fremont to SF Bay)

Not as long and interesting as Iron Horse, but no stop sign, no red light, no intersection, meaning you can bike, bike, and bike some more without leaving your saddle for hours.  Biking in Alameda Creek sometimes makes me wonder where the hell I am?  It doesn't look like the densely populated Bay Area I've always live in.

 I usually get off at Union City Bart Station and enter the middle of the trail from Decoto Road.  Not until recently, I realized it's better to get off at Fremont Bart Station and enter from Mission Blvd, so I can start from nearly the beginning of the trail and heads toward the SF Bay.  Please see the map below.

Source, download map in PDF format, and for more info: http://www.ebparks.org/parks/trails/alameda_creek

3.  Lafayette-Moraga Regional Trail (~7.7 mi, EBMUD Valle Vista Staging Area to the intersection of Olympic Blvd. and Pleasant Hill Rd.)

The Lafayette-Moraga Regional Trail is somewhat similar to Iron Horse Trail, multiple crossroads preventing you to bike continuously.  I must say the neighborhoods in Lafayette-Moraga are more upscale than the already-very-nice San Ramon, Alamo, and Danville area along Iron Horse Trail.  However, 7.7 miles trail is long enough compared to the above two trails.  Although it's still effortless, terrain is little more challenging especially between the Moraga Park Common and Lafayette Community Park.

Lafayette-Moraga Regional Trail in the SF Bay Area, (source: map.google.com)

A closer view of the trail, (source: map.google.com)

I usually park my car in Valle Vista Staging Area, unload my bike, and start from there.  I can also start from the the other end, Olympic Blvd., if I decided not to drive and take the BART to Lafayette BART Station.  Never tried taking BART and bike to the trail before, maybe it's kinda far from the starting point, or maybe not; I dunno.  I think I should try it next time.

Charge Mixer Alfine 11 - First Impression and Review

I talked about my dream perfect Alfine 11 bike awhile ago, and one of the best three bikes is a Charge Mixer.  I did get a chance to see it in person in Performance Bike in San Francisco, but never did a test ride. Well, Bikerumor has it.  First impression as well as long term test, something you wouldn't want to miss.

Source: www.bikerumors.com

 

Not a Rumor Anymore: 2012 Origin-8 Frames, Specifically CX700

You can find the listing: http://compare.ebay.com/like/380439788576?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Source: http://www.origin-8.com/

The 2012 black cx700 is here.  Need I say more?  Well...

I just bought a used 2011 cx700, but seeing how much the new ones are right now, I have no regret yet.  I may change the way I think, or even get paranoid, if the price drops substantially, but now I am going to keep my cool.

@ $379.96 + shipping (~$42.00 for me only), the current one is more than twice the price of the previous year, and the price tag is very close, if not the same, as Soma Fabrication's black Double Cross, which both Double Cross and CX700 are cross frames with both canti bosses/disc brake tabs.

Latest Update (May 22, 2012):

$269.98 (shipping not included) is getting closer to the equilibrium price as far as law of demand and supply goes.  

Updated Pics, Brooks B17 Narrow, Origin 8 Propulsion Track Pedals, B&M Lumotec IQ

I decided to replace the Avenir saddle with the Brooks B17 Narrow.  I got the B17 narrow used on Craigslist for $50, which I thought was a good deal in nearly new condition.  I liked the feel of the narrow version better than the regular B17.

I do like the look of the Origin8 Track pedals (same as Wellgo WR-1).   If you are not careful, they can give you a pretty bad scratch on the back of your lower leg, which is what happened to me and my friend who borrowed my bike for a day.   I am going to leave these pedals on this bike, but I wouldn't buy another set because the Origin-8 pedals are too dangerous even for casual cycling.  These pedals also resembles the appearance of the pricier MKS Touring Lite pedals, which I also own but haven't install them yet.  Fingers crossed, hope the design of the MKS is more forgiving.

Left: MKS Touring Lite Pedals; Right: Origin-8 Propulsion Track Pedals

I finally get a chance to use the B&M Lumotec IQ at night (40 lux).  First impression... WOW!   Much brighter than I expected.  This headlight is more than adequate for my need.  I should post some pics to show how bright it is when I have time, but for now, please check out the pics below.

Done!

It's done!  I have another confession to make.  I ran out of patience.  I want to ride.  So I brought it to Pioneeer Bike Shop in Oakland, and let Edmund (the expert) worry about the technical stuff.  As always, he did a great job.  I didn't put the Brooks on because I wear jeans most of the time and it's just going to damage the leather seat.  The Avenir saddle I got from REI works perfectly for my 30-miles test ride in Iron Horse Trail from Pleasanton to Concord.   Here's a peek of my Soma Juice Alfine 29er:

The Crankset Part 1

Getting the Right Tools For the Crankset

Ok, I am going to be a little technical with the parts number, so please forgive me if unintentionally scared you away.  So, I spent sometime last weekend installing the Alfine crankset along with the Hollowtech-2 bottom bracket, chains, pedals, and hooking up the shifter cable.  Speaking of the HT-2 crankset/bb, the most economical way to install is to purchase the Parktool BBT-9.  At first, I got the BBT-19, which is essentially the same as BBT-9 except that you can snap the 19 onto the torque wrench, so installation can be done in a more professional way.  But, BBT-19 by itself is not enough.  On the other end of the BBT-9 is a cap tool, which is not found in BBT-19 and is required to secure the cap on the non-drive side.  So, in addition to the BBT-19, I need to buy either a Shimano TL-FC16 (~$3.50 + $5 shipping) or Parktool BBT-9 which I got it for $11 from Amazon.  Those tools are beginning  to cost me my left and right kidneys.

BBT-9

BBT-9 (Cap Tool)

BBT-19

Shimano TL-FC16

Observations

One thing I noticed is the 45t chainring is literally less than 1 mm away from the chainstay, on my SOMA Juice.  Well not quite, but less than 1mm of clearance.  The chainline of 42.7mm (see techdocs above) is really getting close to sawing the chainstay on the frame.  So I suggested probably 39t version of the Alfine would probably be a more appropriate choice for the Juice or similar 29er frame.

Installation

Installation is be straight forward, screw the BB cups in, insert by tapping the crank axle from the drive-side through the BB, screw the cap in the left arm, insert the plate-pin, and tighten the hex-bolts in the arm, (for more detailed instructions, refer to Shimano's techdocs here) BUT, I have a confession to make.  First time I thought I put everything together, decided to go for a ride, the left arm fell off.  What have I done incorrectly this time?

It turns out that it has nothing to do with my newb mechanical knowledge but rather my lack of attention to the spec of the frame.  Soma Juice 29er has a BB shell width of 73mm, a very common shell width for mountain bikes, and the Alfine crankset is designed for 68mm BB shell.  This is a costly mistake especially with the new HT-2 design, which the axle is welded onto the arm of the drive-side.  So you can't just replace the bottom bracket like how you can do it for square-taper, octalink, splined, or other 3-pieces crankset designs.  I love the style of the Afline crankset so much that I decided to ask people from bikeforum.net if there's any work-around to the length of the axle, and the post can be found here.  Unfortunately, it turns out there's no adapter or some extender that could solve my problem other than either milling the shell on the non-drive side, (so that the axle would stick out a little further), or replacing the whole crankset.  In addition to that, I found out there's a double chain guards version of Alfine crankset that has a longer axle, but I have no clue where to get one.

So I decided to not spend too much time on the crank itself and went with another less costly alternative.  I decided to get a Truvative triple, and hopefully, I can convert it to a single chainring with the correct chainline.  More about this in another post.